An izakaya (居酒屋) is one of Japan’s most beloved dining institutions — part pub, part restaurant, all atmosphere. Whether you’re in Tokyo, Osaka, or a small provincial city, ducking into a lively izakaya after a day of sightseeing is one of the most authentic Japanese experiences you can have. This guide covers everything you need to know as a tourist.
What Is an Izakaya?
Izakaya literally means “stay-drink-place” — a casual dining establishment where you order drinks and small dishes to share over several hours. Think of it as Japan’s answer to a Spanish tapas bar or a British pub, but with better food.
Izakaya range from tiny standing bars (tachinomi) with five seats to massive chain restaurants seating hundreds of people. Most are lively, loud, and very welcoming of tourists.
Types of Izakaya
- Chain izakaya: Watami, Torikizoku, Shidax — English menus often available, tourist-friendly
- Yakitori-ya: Specializing in grilled chicken skewers
- Robatayaki: Charcoal-grilled food, often dramatic open-kitchen presentation
- Tachinomi (standing bars): No seats — stand and drink, very cheap and casual
- Private-room izakaya: You get your own enclosed room — great for groups
How to Enter an Izakaya
Walking into an izakaya is easier than you think:
- Push aside the noren (fabric curtain) at the entrance
- Staff will greet you with “Irasshaimase!” (Welcome!)
- Hold up fingers to indicate your group size or say the number: “Futari” (2 people), “Sannin” (3 people)
- You’ll be seated at a table, counter, or private room
The Otoshi: Japan’s Cover Charge
Almost every izakaya charges an otoshi (お通し) — a small appetizer automatically brought to your table that serves as a cover charge. It typically costs ¥300–¥600 per person and you cannot opt out.
Don’t be surprised by it — think of it like a bread basket at a Western restaurant. The dish varies by izakaya and season, and it’s often quite good.
Ordering Drinks
The first thing you’ll be asked is what you’d like to drink. Common izakaya drinks include:
- Nama biiru (生ビール): Draft beer — the classic first order
- Highball (ハイボール): Whiskey and soda — very popular in Japan
- Chuhai (チューハイ): Shochu mixed with soda and fruit flavors
- Sake (日本酒): Rice wine — ask for atsukan (hot) or hiya (cold)
- Shochu (焼酎): Distilled spirit — usually mixed with water or soda
- Oolong tea / Juice: For non-drinkers — saying “Oolong-cha” is totally fine
Nomihodai (飲み放題) means all-you-can-drink — often available for a fixed price (around ¥1,500–¥2,500 for 90–120 minutes). Great value if you plan to stay a while.
What to Order: Must-Try Izakaya Foods
Grilled Dishes (Yaki-mono)
- Yakitori (焼き鳥): Grilled chicken skewers — order tare (sweet soy sauce) or shio (salt)
- Tsukune (つくね): Chicken meatball skewers with egg yolk dip
- Gyutan (牛タン): Grilled beef tongue — a Sendai specialty found in many izakaya
Fried Dishes (Age-mono)
- Karaage (唐揚げ): Japanese fried chicken — crispy, juicy, essential
- Takoyaki (たこ焼き): Octopus balls — a must in Osaka-style izakaya
- Edamame (枝豆): Salted soybeans — the perfect snack to start
Cold Dishes
- Hiyayakko (冷奴): Cold tofu with green onion and ginger
- Tataki (たたき): Lightly seared fish or meat (try katsuo/bonito tataki)
- Sashimi moriawase (刺身盛り合わせ): Sashimi platter — usually excellent quality
Hearty Dishes
- Nabe (鍋): Hot pot — great for groups, especially in winter
- Ochazuke (お茶漬け): Rice with tea poured over it — a classic end-of-night order
- Ramen or udon: Many izakaya offer noodles as a closing dish
Izakaya Etiquette for Tourists
- Toast before drinking: Raise your glass and say “Kanpai!” (Cheers!)
- Don’t pour your own drink: Pour for others, and let others pour for you — it’s a sign of friendship
- Order gradually: You don’t need to order everything at once — take your time and order more as you go
- Call staff with a wave or button: Many izakaya have a table call button; otherwise, make eye contact and raise your hand slightly
- Shoes off? Rarely: Most izakaya have regular seating, but some traditional ones have tatami rooms where you remove shoes
- Smoking: Some izakaya still allow smoking in designated areas — check before you sit
How to Pay at an Izakaya
When you’re ready to leave, say “Okaikei onegaishimasu” (お会計おねがいします) — “Check, please.” Most izakaya bring the bill to your table. Payment is usually at the register near the exit. Cash is preferred at many smaller izakaya, though chains often accept cards.
It’s common for the group to split the bill evenly (warikan) regardless of exactly what each person ordered.
How Much Does an Izakaya Cost?
Budget around ¥2,500–¥5,000 per person for a full evening with food and drinks. Chain izakaya tend to be cheaper (¥2,000–¥3,000), while premium spots can run ¥6,000+.
Useful Phrases for the Izakaya
- Irasshaimase — Welcome (staff say this, you just nod)
- Futari desu — Two people
- Nama biiru hitotsu — One draft beer
- Kore wo kudasai — I’ll have this one (pointing at menu)
- Okaikei onegaishimasu — Check please
- Kanpai! — Cheers!
- Oishii! — Delicious!
Finding a Good Izakaya
The best izakaya are often discovered by wandering through a yokocho (alley) or following locals. Apps like Tabelog and Google Maps are useful for finding highly-rated spots. Look for a full house — a busy izakaya is almost always a good izakaya.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an izakaya?
An izakaya (居酒屋) is a Japanese casual pub-restaurant where you order drinks and small shared dishes over several hours. It’s one of the most popular ways Japanese people socialize after work.
Are izakayas tourist-friendly?
Yes — especially chain izakayas like Torikizoku, Watami, and Shirokiya, which often have picture menus and sometimes English menus. Locals are generally welcoming of foreign visitors.
How much does an izakaya cost?
Budget ¥2,500–¥5,000 per person for a full evening with food and drinks. The otoshi (mandatory appetizer cover charge) typically adds ¥300–¥600 per person.
What is otoshi at an izakaya?
Otoshi (お通し) is a small appetizer automatically brought to your table that functions as a cover charge. You cannot opt out — it costs ¥300–¥600 per person and is normal practice.
What should I order at an izakaya?
Start with edamame and karaage (fried chicken). Add yakitori skewers, hiyayakko (cold tofu), and sashimi. For drinks, a nama biiru (draft beer) or highball is the classic first order.
How do I pay at an izakaya?
Say “Okaikei onegaishimasu” (お会計おねがいします) when ready. Pay at the register near the exit. Groups typically split the bill evenly regardless of what each person ordered.
Related guides: Japanese Food Words Guide | Japanese Restaurant Phrases | Tax-Free Shopping Guide
